We split our Maine vacation into three big chunks. After our day in Portsmouth we drove to Boothbay Harbor, where we would spend the first phase of our trip.
Boothbay is an active fishing community. Like a lot of coastal Maine villages, Boothbay stays pretty quiet in the months and days before Memorial Day. Then, suddenly it blows up into a bustling “summer town,” filled with tourists, as well as folks coming up to spend the warm months in their quaint summer cottages.
Derek and I were in Boothbay in the days just before the holiday, and happened to be there during unseasonalbly chilly weather. This meant we pretty much had the run of the place. We stayed three nights at Captain Sawyer’s Place, an sea captain’s home built in the 1800’s. Now it functions as a bed and breakfast…and it looks pretty darn sweet.
The room was comfortable, and we were the only occupants two of our three nights. Staying at Captain Sawyer’s felt like staying over with an older relative that you don’t know very well. Kim, the owner, was eager to help us decide on fun things to do, since the town was not officially “open for the season.” She also made the most amazing breakfasts. We were so full every morning we usually didn’t eat lunch until around 2pm.
Our first day in Boothbay was well spent. We started by heading to the Coastal Main Botanical Gardens. I was a little skeptical at first, since I felt like it might be boring, or {heaven forbid} an old person’s activity. But Kim insisted that it was amazing. So we went.
It was a great choice. Our visit to the garden stands out as one of my absolute favorite activities of our whole ten day trip. It’s that great.
The gardens are wonderfully laid out and accessible to everyone. Even people with a bad back. The day we visited, there was a huge field trip going on. Kids were spilling out of the specially designed “Children’s Garden” into whimsical tree houses, fairy woods, and other pathways. We overheard more than one kid turn to a friend and say, “This place is awesome!” I couldn’t agree more.
The Coastal Botanical Gardens own 250 acres. That’s a lot of space. You are free to walk to the more distant parts of the exhibits…or {if your back has issues and you have a husband who insists you “take it easy”} you can hitch a ride on one of their shuttles.
After the gardens, we took a drive down the coast to Pemaquid Point to see what the Internet told me was one of Maine’s most idyllic lighthouses.
On the way, we stopped so Derek could eat Maine’s #1 lobster roll from Red’s Eats. I had chicken fingers. I don’t like sea food. Don’t judge me.
The lighthouse at Pemaquid Point was idyllic, as promised. And again, on a cold, rainy May afternoon we were pretty much the only visitors. The older men working at the site as museum docents and guides were helpful and glad to tell us all about lobster traps, the specially cut glass that helps a small bulb power a huge lighthouse beacon, and life as a light keeper.
I love talking to locals. And these men were definitely local. They told us the best places to eat, complimented our trip plan when we told them that we were heading to Acadia then up to Moosehead Lake. “That’s the way to do Maine. If you’ve only got 10 days, that’s the way to do it.”
On our way back to Boothbay, Derek spotted a sign for another historic fort—so obviously, we had to stop. It’s Fort William Henry…in case any of you are interested. Click the photo for more on that.
The next day, we decided to get a look at Boothbay Harbor, from the harbor. During the high tourist season all kinds of water cruises leave the bay. You can ride a wind jammer, go on a puffin cruise, or take chartered fishing trips. But before Memorial Day, your options are limited. The only boat running was a ferry going from Boothbay Harbor to Squirrel Island. Not easily downed, we bought passage and rode along.
The captain told us that the trip would mostly serve to ferry folks to the island that were coming out for the weekend to open up their summer cottages. As we waited to leave, we watched as grills, pool toys, luggage, and lawn furniture was loaded onto the boat. Soon people filed in too. They all seemed to know each other and eagerly chattered away about how excited they were for another summer. How they were just chomping at the bit to get back to the cottage.
Now, let me just say, this word “cottage” should be taken lightly. Very lightly. These cottages that lined the shore could swallow up my little Practically Canadian home and still have 1500 square feet to spare. In some cases, the wrap around porches alone probably held the same square footage as the main level of our house. It was wild.
That day we ate lunch at the Bridge Street Cafe, where we picked our waitresses brain about this lifestyle of “summering” in Maine. She told us she was 19 and that her family had always come to their cottage for the summer for as long as she could remember. Her family lived in California, where her dad worked for IBM. During the warm months, they came to Boothbay Harbor, where he worked from home at the large cottage they had inherited. “That’s pretty much everybody’s story. The cottage was a great-grandfather’s. They family keeps coming up here, because that’s what they’ve always done,
she told us nonchalantly.
Wild.
After walking the streets of the quaint downtown, we took a drive around Southport Island to gawk at more summer homes and do a little jaw-dropping at the coastal scenes. We took a short walk along a nature preserve. We pulled off to walk a beach that looked out at another lighthouse.
When we were tired and hungry, we headed back to town to change and head to dinner. This was our anniversary and it was fabulous. That night, we ate at the Boothbay Bistro, where we were {again} among only a small handful of locals eating before the holiday rush began.
The next day we took our time heading out. I got coffee in town, we watched the boats ready for the first day of the official tourist season. Then I pulled on my purple sweatshirt and we took off toward the next phase of our adventure: Acadia National Park.
Amy
